nicaragua.... so far.... so good (january 2010)

It has only been two weeks since we arrived in Nicaragua, but it already seems as though so much has happened. Although I only have words to describe the town we live in, hopefully soon I will be able to also share photos and video of our everyday life.

We are residing in the town of Granada, which, much to my surprise, has its own population of world travelers and tourists. Apparently, this area attracts people from all over because of the colonial architecture, as well as the natural surroundings- including Lake Nicaragua, its islands, and the surrounding volcanoes. Most of the buildings here are painted in very bright colors, but each place inside is completely different from the next.

This town is very alive with sound. It seems as though it comes alive around seven in the morning and doesn’t sleep until ten at night… although, each area of town is different from the next. The various sounds include horns blaring, bells tolling, roosters crowing, loud music playing, the clopping of horse hooves, various machinery at work, and, of course, many voices speaking and yelling.

It seems as though everyone has something to sell, from food to little wooden whistles carved into animal shapes and painted in bright colors. You can buy things from people selling things door to door (fresh fruit, candies, toothbrushes, combs); from various homes (where the front has been turned into a restaurant or convenient store); from the open market (think swap meet, but dirtier, fresh fruit and veggies, dvds, watches, fans, grains); and from the local stores (which have everything else plus what they have in the street at a more expensive price). Sometimes you can get offered things a little too much here…. Like with the wooden whistles, hammocks, and ceramics. The vendors of these items walk around everywhere and approach you no matter where you are outside…even when you are having an outside meal. And, like every top salesman, they don’t take no for an answer. What’s funny is that they all have the same sales pitch: “it’s different”, “it’s inexpensive”, “for the baby”…. And, really, they all have the same goods for sale. Might I add, the ages of these sales people are from maybe seven years to adult years. And although you may have told them “no” the day before, the same people will ask you again tomorrow. I have had the same girl ask me if I would like to buy some wooden whistles about five to seven times now…. Always with the same pitch, as though I have never heard it before. Jeremy and I have discussed making t-shirts that may say, “ I already have one of everything”, “I’m not a tourist”, “I have a wooden whistle, hammock, and ceramic jar for sale”?...

The town is very accessible by foot or bike, but there is also the option of a $0.50 taxi ride to anywhere in town, or a carriage ride pulled by horses. I’ve now learned that a bike is not transportation for just one person, but two, and, yes, even three. The bar in front of the seat serves as a place for another person to sit, whether it’s your friend, and/ or two year old child. Motorcycles have the same story, but they are a little roomier. Tonight I saw a family of three riding quite comfortably.

We have already found many places throughout the city that are little jewels. There is an art place where the girls have gotten to make free crafts for about a week. So far, we have two rain makers, two painted and feathered birdhouses, and a couple of painted rocks. There is a pool club where we plan on having the girls take swim lessons. Among the wild couple of ducks that think they own the pool and can be a little territorial at times, is a serene atmosphere, including a bar for eat and drink, and a couple of cabanas should you want to pay for a massage. There is a community center where we witnessed some kids practicing a choreographed dance and Shiloh now wants to take dance class. There are some good restaurants and our favorite at the moment is one that is in the home of a Canadian couple who run the restaurant five days a week. They have about seven tables set up when you walk in, the husband acts as host and server and the wife is the cook- who you can see the whole time, working hard in the kitchen. They have serious good, clean food; beer in frosted glasses; and a pristine environment- a very impressive combination considering the norms of this town. I haven’t seen any bars that have made any lasting impressions on me so far (not that I have much of a night life), but one. There is a little bar that is tucked away behind its garden walkway entrance that serves for live local music.

As far as our living situation, we have found a place that we desire to rent for long term, but we do not move in until March. I am super excited for the day we move in. In the meantime, we have just been graced by a couple who offered us a cheap two week stay in a large cozy room right above their beautiful café. Among other tasty meals and treats, the café sells espresso, gelato (which makes the girls happy), and hummus. We have a balcony that overlooks the central plaza, which is the main thoroughfare for various vendors, plus the starting area for many of the carriages. It is also located right next to many of the town’s oldest buildings and churches. You could people watch out this balcony for hours, seeing the various locals selling things, driving carriages, taxi drivers waiting to give rides, people eating food and chilling out. Everyone passes by this area, whether by foot, car, carriage, motorcycle, or bike. Oh, and the street dogs too. These very docile animals are everywhere. And for some reason, they all look like they are in a big hurry to get somewhere…. Or they pretend they belong to someone for a little bit when they take a rest next to a chair or bench where someone is sitting.

For the month of February we will be renting a spacious house with a large outdoor area where the girls can have tons of room to run and play and be super loud.

The biggest high point of Granada for us has been the people. The people here, so far, have been very warm and kind and, with Jeremy especially, very talkative. In our short stay so far we have met people who are so helpful and have such amazing resources for us. Everyone is ready to spend time to talk and share. This place has a beautiful sense of community. Neighbors pull out their chairs to sit on the sidewalk to chill out- life exists outside their homes and they are not too lazy or too busy to make the effort to come outside and enjoy it. Not only are they not too lazy or busy for community, but they prefer it! Because the town is so compact, I see how this is possible. When you can walk everywhere, you see the same people over and over. Everywhere we go, everyone loves the girls, unfortunately, even the mosquitoes. I love when I see the girls interact with different kids here. Although the language barrier exists, they still laugh and play and enjoy the company.

I am taking Spanish from a tutor…it is about to turn into five days a week…, and I practice with people when I don’t feel nervous. Some other differences in life here include times without running water or electricity because of an energy crisis, but it never lasts forever. And it really makes you thankful when you get it back.

It is very different here. There is a lot to experience in this new part of our lives, and I am so excited that it has begun. Hopefully some of you will make it down to our home so that we can share this adventure with you too.